Building the Seiko SKX Sub-Ocean: My first SKX mod!
Today I modify my first SKX.
Hey, guys. I’m Max, and this is WatchCrunch. So at around $300, many would argue that the Seiko SKX is your best, first mechanical watch. Now, I’m a little bit late to the game because I never thought that I could pull off a 42 millimeter watch. But thanks to its compact lugs, the SKX actually wears more like a 40.
Now, as you probably know, the SKX is a favorite amongst the modification community. And partly because of the plethora of parts that exist for this watch. Now, I’ve seen a lot of SKX mods floating around on the internet, and frankly, most of them are a little too extreme for my taste. For my first foray, I wanted to retain the essence of the SKX, but at the same time address some of the watch’s shortcomings. So with that said, let’s go ahead and get into the build.
Okay. Here are the parts laid out on the table. We have the SKX case with a top hat Sapphire crystal that I had already installed. The case back. This is the original 7S26 movement with some submariner hands that I had already put on there. Here is the old bezel and the new one with a planet, ocean style, ceramic insert, and the knurling on the side. This is the NH36 movement with a new stem and a Seiko signed crown. And lastly, a Bark and Jack NATO strap.
First, let me show you how I got the bezel off. Take some really thick tape to protect the lug. The bottom, right one, some say is the easiest. Then take this wedge and twist hard, and you should hear the bezel separate. Now, removing the hands might be difficult on a non-hacking movement, but if you apply a little bit of counter traction on the crown, it can stop the second hand long enough for you to do this.
Taking the old dial off, taking care, not to touch the face of it. Next, we get the NH36 movement out and fit the dial on there. Now, notice that the date wheel is slightly misaligned. I discovered that to resolve this problem, you actually have to swap over the date wheel from the old movement. This requires taking off the center C-clip, and then reinstalling it once you swap the wheels. This is not terribly difficult, but just make sure you have some really fine flat-head screwdrivers.
So now, when we pop the dial on there, you’ll see that the date wheel is perfectly centered. Next, we move on to the hands. Now, you want to make sure that the crown is set such that the date just turns over. Then align everything at the 12 o’clock position, starting with the hour hand, then moving on to the minute hand.
And let me show you a special trick for getting the second hand on there, because it can be difficult. You pick it up by the counterweight and gently set it onto the pinion. Then take the toothpick, get it started. Once it’s aligned, then you can take the hand installer and fully seat the second hand onto the pinion. Check the alignment of everything.
Okay, now we’re ready for the case, making sure to blow things off in between to make sure that no dust gets trapped on there. Now, I’ve already cut the new stem to size. And you want to do this carefully and make many small incremental cuts so you don’t overdo it and waste the stem. If you did it correctly, it should screw all the way down. Give it another dust off. Apply the O-ring and the case back.
Next, we re-install the click ring and then place the new bezel on top. And we’ll be using the crystal press to get this back on. With the right fittings, press firmly and you’ll hear the bezel seat itself. The new inserts is secured with double-sided adhesive. So, we remove the backing, get it perfectly aligned and then firmly press it into place.
Okay, well, messing with that misaligned date wheel problem really threw me for a loop, but having to deal with that C-clip wasn’t as bad as I’d feared. And here is the final product. I’ve always been impressed with the SKX’s bezel action, which is on par with watches 10 times it’s price. Now, the tactile feel is even better with a knurled edge.
The top hat crystal gives it a vintage feel, but maintains a slim profile. The orange accents on the dial now match those on the bezel, bringing some cohesion to the design. Now, we’re probably all familiar with the SKX’s dimensions, but I will put them up here again. The lume is bright, as a dive watch should be. And I chose to retain the original secondhand because I feel like the round counterweight goes well with the hour indices.
Overall, I’m really happy with how this turned out. The watch still has an SKX soul, but the tasteful upgrades bring it into the 21st century. All right. So that’s the build. Since the watch has some mariner hands and a planet ocean bezel, I think I’ll call it the SKX SubOcean. in the comments below, let me know how I did on my first SKX build. Well, thank you for tuning in. Until next time, take care.
